Sunday, 24 April 2011

Crepe muslining


I am debating to make my 3rd muslin for the crepe and I must admit that after this one, I am going to make the decision as to whether I should actually cut a smaller size. I have made sooo many changes its not funny. I am conscious of the fact that what I do to the back must be done to the front, and as I have changed the back due to it being too big, I am wondering if the skirt part will now be affected. I guess as this is my first attempt at proper dressmaking I must just 'suck it and see'.

Here are a few pix to show you what I have done. I will admit at this point that I have absolutely NO IDEA as to what I am doing and as such I am just going to go with it and see what it looks like.

You will need to click onto the pictures to make them a little clearer !

So I have made the following changes to my traced pattern. I am finding that due to the curved lines, and wraped back  of this pattern make it pretty hard to make all the changes (in my own view of course).

After adding 2 inches to the bodice length I tried to fix the gaping neckline by adding some tissue there and grading up. You can see that in the below picture. (Sorry my photo presenting skills are not that great with fancy arrows and stuff, but as I am new to this I am not sure how to do all that yet). I then made sure that the back bodice shoulder had some tissue added to make sure that they were still the same width for sewing.

As you can see, I have had alot of 'fun' with the back bodice pieces - believe me its been a mare. As the back sagged so madly, as if I have a narrow back (as I think I cut too large a size) I took a tuck out. Now I am worried that the will be no recognisable wrap effect. But I think if I use this altered tissue to make a new muslin, even if it does not fit I have learnt valuable lessons in relation to changing a pattern tissue. I guess all practice is good practice, right ? And it cant be harming my sewing skills either.

I lowered the bust dart as my apex is lower than the pattern, and I also reduced the waist dart - I shortened both darts by around 1 inch. I'm hoping the fit on this version will be better.

As the centre of the shoulder seam needed to come forward due to my forward sloping shoulders I added 1 cm to the back bodice should and have marked 1cm  on the pattern to reduce the front piece by the same amount. I used a French curve to follow the curvature of the shoulder, and I dont think I have done a bad job.
See, all practice is good practice !

This is the back bodice - with an additional 1 cm added to the shoulder. Check out the line of the wrap - see how many changes I have made ? Wowee - its certainly been a lesson.

I am finding it hard to tissue fit and prefer making a muslin for this project. i hope with more simple patterns I will be able to tissue fit. I really wish I had a dressmaking form as I struggle to pin and fit by myself. Not sure if thats common or just comes with practice ?

So, I am now going to go and cut the fabric to make the 3rd muslin. One thing I am worried about is the fact that I am going to need alot more fashion fabric then I originally thought, and as such I may need to buy some more online - but will it be from the same bolt and exactly match ? Hmmmm probably not eh ?

I shall let you know how I get on ! Wish me luck (I need plenty of it !!)

K xxx

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