Using the Colette Sewing Book (and Jackie's Cakes !)

Hello people

Well, we are well and truly into 2012 now- can you believe how quickly time flies ?

I have just been having a gander at the new folks up on the Sew Weekly site  (you can too here), and although I will miss seeing Debi, Veronica Darling, Oona and co, I am excited to get to know and see what the new gang are going to be making  :-)  I always feel so inspired seeing other people's makes, and I love the format of the Sew Weekly where we can see LOTS of makes, every week, from different people.

Exciting !

I have been working on the Jasmine, and although I cant share the finished garment yet (as it's not finished ! I have cut and interfaced the fabric, sewed the darts, but am yet to stitch it together) I hope to 'show and tell' soon.

I thought I would share my first experience of using the Colette Sewing Book as an actual reference book. Whilst sewing ! Wooop wooop ! Which actually is very easy with this book due to the way its spiral bound !

I referenced page 84, to be exact, as I needed to make the waist larger on the pattern and so I traced the pattern and then slashed and pivoted as shown in the book.

I must admit I found making these changes much easier using a cardboard table. Actually I have wanted one of these tables after watching Fit for Real People -The Basics DVD, and have spent many a happy hour browsing for one, without any luck (thank god otherwise I would have spent money on one !). Then, this weekend I thought what a waste of money buying one when I can use a large old box. For FREE. And that people, is exactly what I did !

It was amazing ! I laid an old piece of thin decorating vinyl material over it, which thoughtfully of the fabric was gridded, and I used my new table (well actually a flat piece of thick card covered in vinyl to be exact)  to anchor the pattern while I made my adjustments.

Here are the changes that I made to the pattern in practice (and although I did change both the length and  width by 1.5 inches, I later reduced the extra width after making a muslin - it was too much ! Eventually I widened by 6/8 of an inch.

Slashing to make a 'hinge'

Slashing and using my new cardboard 'table' to anchor the pattern pieces, LOVE IT !

Birds eye view

The book advises to mark the seam line on the pattern, and slash at the place where the side seam and underarm seam meet - however - you cant do that on the Jasmine pattern because as you can see above, due to the shapes of the seams, a slash would not be possible at this point. As such I slashed it as near as I could to that point, whilst making sure I had some tissue either side of my slash.

Make sure you add width at the stitching line

Using a pin to drag tissue paper under the pattern - STILL loving the cardboard !

Tissue added - now to tape down and trim off the excess.

Hmm - now the dart needs fixing !

Easy peasy !!   :-) Just match up the ends to the point !

I made a muslin and it seemed to fit pretty well, but I made it a little too wide ! Doh !

I took a gamble and did not make another muslin, I reduced the width on the pattern and just cut the fabric as I am certain that it will fit. Especially because the fabric is drapey, and I plan to wear it tucked in, so a little extra around the midriff is not going to hurt. I draped the pieces over Dolly, and it looks good so far. I made a hybrid of the 2 versions, using the collar from version 1, and the sleeves from version 2. I am using a silk/cotton blend and cutting on the bias, both firsts for me, and I no likey cutting on the bias. I especially no likey trying to mark the darts etc.

Anyone got any good marking tips, especially when cutting on the bias ? Chalk just dragged and I didn't have much luck with tailor tacks.

Hopefully I can finish it at the weekend - it will be nice to start the year with a freshly made garment. I especially love thinking about what I can wear with a new garment to make an outfit !

I other news - I took a picture of a cake, but not just any cake. My colleague makes them every Monday - and they are so beautiful ! I think I may start a little feature called 'Jackies Cakes' so I can share her amazingness with the world !

And - to be fair - after this gigantic post if you made it this far - you deserve a treat !!

YUM !! And soooo pretty !

I hope 2012 has been kind to you so far. And that you have a lovely person in your life who makes you beautiful cakes !

K xxx

Sencha

Hello people

I hope you have all had a cracking weekend ? I have spent the main of it sewing !

Look what I am working on.....

Hopefully using these ...

Ship Ahoy !!

I made a muslin with no alterations first. Having never made a top before I didn't want to only rely on tissue fitting.

Muslin made with no alterations.

Loving the tailor tacks !

 I realised I needed an extra 2 inches in length and that I wanted a more open neck area, so I just went ahead and reflected that on the pattern tissue.

Tonight I have got so far as to make it up and sew on the facings.

Tomorrow I will under-stitch the facings and then attempt the buttons. Wish me luck, I think I may well be needing it, by the bucket-load ! Not really sure how well buttons and me are going to get along. If it goes well, I am going to attempt the Colette Beignet, with its many buttons next;  if it goes badly, the Colette Peony will be next. Ha !

(Sorry - I am not meaning to canvass any particular pattern company, I just love these patterns and find them not just pretty but also easy for my level (ie a total beginner); and they have excellent instruction guides, so there   :-p    )

I have dressed Dolly in the (almost) finished Sencha, and she looks pretty good in it  :-)  I am liking the choice of fabric for this one, unlike the fabric disaster choice on my recent V8308 (which you can read about here if you like). I am still on the fence about that one, and am still thinking it may be recycled into a more wearable skirt. I am sure its OK to have disasters as a home seamstress - because otherwise why would someone have invented a seam ripper ?!

The only thing is that I have made the keyhole neck a little too open now - and it looks a tiny bit odd. However,I don't mind enough to not want to wear it. I am going to make another version once this one is finished and next time I think I will try the version with neck tucks. I am going to be brave and just cut it without making a new muslin. All I will do is add 2 inches to the length and fit it as I sew.

I am finding it really useful to just baste all seams, pleats etc and then fit whatever I am making as I go along. I found that it really made a difference with my second Ginger. The shape of it looks so much better.

In other news, my November copy of Burda Style arrived on Friday, and friends, I am on the whole disappointed, but I fancy this is only because the patterns in the October issue were so awesome ! Has anyone made up any of the October patterns yet ? I would love to see some !

Well, I am off to get some Vimto, thirsty work this writing lark !

Hope you enjoy the rest of your Sunday.

K xxx

Ginger muslin

Hola people

I hope you have all had a great bank holiday weekend. Mr P's sister is back from Australia and so we went to meet her and the rest of Mr P's family for a delicious roast. Mr P's sister is a very clever seamstress and I am looking forward to spending some time sewing with her. You can read her blog here.

Yesterday I spent all day working on my muslin for the Ginger skirt. The first one I made included the waistband, but you know what, I think I prefer the skirt without the waistband, so made it without, and I liked it ! I was so stoked to finally make a muslin that actually looks like it could end up as a wearable garment. YIPPEEEE  !!

First off I traced the pattern

Then I graded the waist - using the tips that Sunni provided on her blog

 I then added to the length, but I dont think I did this bit correctly as I added all the length across the skirt as shown by the cutting line. I think I should have added 2 inches there and 2 inches at the bottom. But I didnt. Hey Ho.

 (more length added - I dont have the figure for shorter lengths !!)

I then cut the muslin fabric

And sewed it up. And Voila !

This is the first muslin that I can actually show you a picture of, as it does not look too bad ! (sorry about the crap photos, my mirror needs a clean, and I dont have the best of bodies for modelling !)

I cant believe I have actually made a test garment that I am happy to share - Finally !!  I am so stoked it actually looks like a skirt, it made me almost insanely happy. I cant imagine how I will feel once I have actually made a wearable garment.   :-))

I like the length, and I like where the skirt sits on my hips without the waistband. So I think I may make the skirt without the band  - what do you think ? Should I make without the band ? Is it allowed ? As I am new to this sewing garments malarky I don't feel very confident.

I like the idea of using bias tape to stabilize the waist - I read in the 'complete book of sewing shortcuts' (which I wrote about here) that this is a viable option. This means I don't have to face the skirt (I think !) I'm going to line the skirt with an old cotton sheet, and I am going to treat the fabric and lining as one piece of fabric.

I am going to give it a go and see what happens, as sewing is all about learning and trial and error (well for me anyway !).

I washed my fashion fabric and am almost ready to cut into it. Do any of you have any thoughts about fit ? Or whether I should forge ahead with the waistband ? I would love to hear from you.

Well, that's it for now, but I will share how I get on. I wont be sewing for a few days as I have to knuckle down to college work for the next few evenings, but I am so excited, I cant wait to make the actual skirt !

K xxx

Trying again

Well, hello friends and happy Friday !!  Yipppppppeeeeee !!

I think Friday evening and night is my favourite part of the weekend. Knowing there are 2 days ahead where I decide my timetable. And I can ponder my free time with a massive glass of rose ! So nice to know that even though I will be awake early, I can get out of bed when I like. I don't stay in bed mind, but just knowing I can if I like is a great feeling ! Especially if Mr P gets up to make the bacon sarnies.

I have been working on my muslin for the blue flower top. I was eager to get started.

I cut out the fabric last night, and then today have worked on marking the fabric and hand basting it all together. I decided for a complete change and so after using red chalk for my crepe muslin, I changed to blue ! All to help ensure my sewing mojo remains firmly in place. A complete change from the crepe and now I am not looking at it thinking  its the crepe ! Its psychological dont you know.

I  already see that I need to make a dart to take in a tiny bit of fabric around the neckline,

and I need to add about an inch to the neck to preserve modesty ! Its quite low already, and thats without any sewing. I think I also need to add an inch to the back pattern piece width as it will be a little tight when stitched. I really think this pattern does not include a seam allowance.

I will also lower the bust dart by around 1/2 inch.

I have only worked on the top pieces so far, the gathered skirt section of the top I will work on tomorrow. It requires gathering, another thing I have never done before, so I need to read up on that before I start.

I have found some plain white borderie anglais which I think I may use for the sleeve straps, I think a plain fabric will look nicer. I will trim the plain fabric with the green ribbon.

Here is a picture of the almost completed top half of the muslin:

Outside:

Inside:

I hope that this project continues to be easier than the crepe. So far so good. There are no major alterations required as yet, but lets see what tomorrow (and the bottom half with all its gathering brings).

On a different note, Mr P and I have a day off together this weekend (a rare occurrence) and I am hoping we can go on a day trip on Sunday to some bluebell woods, or RHS Rosemoor. I love having a mooch around beautiful gardens and pretty places. Especially if I can get a slush puppy somewhere nearby. Happy days.

I swear I am getting old, my new favourite things are gardening, sewing and baking. Oh dear !

On that note, I think I will retire to Bedfordshire  :-)

I hope you all have a wonderful weekend, and a very happy Friday night.

K xxx

Crepe Muslining

Welcome friends !

I made the collette crepe muslin AGAIN, this time cutting 2 sizes smaller and it is sooo much better ! I still need to take tucks out at the back, but after having pinched out wedge shaped areas on both back pieces, I have absolutely NO IDEA how to transfer the changes to my pattern.

I tried cutting the wedge out of the pattern and joining the cut edges of the tissue. This did not work. I then tried to treat it as a dart - again - this did not work !

Can anyone help ? Pretty Please ? Pretty pretty pretty please ? (with cherries ?!)   :-)

The front bodice fits so much better than before, but it either needs a full bust adjustment (as the side seams have swung forward by around 2 inches) or some extra added onto the side seam. Again - does anyone have any good ideas to share with this sewing numpty ? All ideas and tips very gratefully received.

I am going to try the latter first (as its the easiest) , and let me tell you after all this practice I can knock up a bodice muslin now in less than a couple of hours, and that's including hand basting the puppy !

I feel that all this practice is giving me lots of skills, my hand sewing is for sure much neater now than it was on muslin number 1. My muslin making skills have greatly improved. But I am sure looking forward to the time when I can cut confidently into my fashion fabric and make myself the actual dress. And my word, this is taking such a long time, And then I have new skills to learn upon the construction of the dress, ie facings, interfacings, underlinings etc etc etc. I wonder how many 'man hours' will have gone into the dress by the time I can actually 'wear' it ?!

I take my hat off to all the ladies that participated in the sew along, following the schedule. I dont think I could have done it. I think I have been working on bodice muslins now for at least 2 months. WOW. I hope it gets alot easier than this.

Signing off now, I need to do some studying and hope to come back to muslining a little later.

Hope you all had a cracking day,

K xxx

Crepe muslining

Hola,

Started on the muslin again.... decided to measure my high bust and use the corresponding size given on the pattern. I am so over trying to fit the back on the last muslin. I cant see that anything I do do try and fit it will work. So, this is my interpretation of what the 'bible' (fit for real people) says to do. Cut for the back and do a full bust adjustment if required. Hopefully cutting the smaller size will mean the back will now fit and I can try a full bust adjustment if needed on the front bodice. I cut 2 sizes smaller then I cut on my last muslin. And when I say cut, I meant cut the tracing I made of the smaller size. I have taken some pictures to show.

Sorry about the rubbish pictures ! I'm tired ! lol !!

The red line shows where I will make the cut across the pattern to add length.

I already knew from previous experience that I need to add around 2 inches to the length, so I did that using the grid marked paper (a lesson learnt from last time!) It was much easier to make an accurate length addition using this paper.

I added the paper like so, I taped the paper together on the right side of the pattern

I then 'trued' the grain and dart lines - crossing through the lines I don't need.

I'm not so sure about the back - I trued the lines but doing so removed a fair bit of the pattern - so i will just try it and see !!

That's as far as I have got. I imagine I will have to change the darts on the front bodice but I will see about that when I make my first muslin (which may be tonight ! Yes I know its 8 minutes to midnight !! But I feel excited now !).

I am hoping that the fit of this one will be better than the last one I made. I may have to make a few adjustments but I am guessing back adjusts are harder than the front, for this dress at least. So I have to hope this is a closer fit on the back then my last efforts, as I cant be doing with making untold useless muslins (although its great for improving my skills - every cloud ).

Ever hopeful that I will someday finish up with a wearable dress, that fits great; I am back off to conquer this pattern !

Does anyone have anything to share in relation to muslins and fittings ? I would love to hear of others experiences ! I am taking my defeats hard on this one - I think the whole process will become much easier once I know what I am doing !

K xxx

Crepe muslining

More muslining !!


I just cut out the fabric for my muslin with my altered pattern. I didn't bother stay stitching as I wanted to try for fit. Plus I didn't want to get the sewing machine on the go when its near to midnight and so I hand basted the pieces together. To be honest, doing it this way was quicker than I thought ! The front looks pretty good, and I am pleased with my adjustments. But the back ! Oh my word the back ! Its absolutely MASSIVE !! Even with all my adjustments. Hmmmm back to the drawing board.....

So I looked in the bible (Fit for real people) and I think I will cut out a smaller pattern so that the back fits and then do a full bust adjustment (FBA) if I need too. So I am going to trace the pattern for a smaller fit, before I cut it out.  I will be adding 2 inches (maybe 3) to the tracing of the pattern before I even cut the fabric as I will need the length.  Ill see how it goes with this one. I think for tonight though I should quit while I am ahead so that I don't give up on this project through sheer frustration !

I'm guessing that this is all part and parcel of learning to make my own clothes. It will take me a while to get used to the sizing of patterns and adjustments that need making.

Ill have another go tomorrow and Ill take some pictures for you.

Off to bed now, cos right now I am sooo over this first stage of dressmaking !!

Good night all

K xxx

Crepe muslining

Hola

I am debating to make my 3rd muslin for the crepe and I must admit that after this one, I am going to make the decision as to whether I should actually cut a smaller size. I have made sooo many changes its not funny. I am conscious of the fact that what I do to the back must be done to the front, and as I have changed the back due to it being too big, I am wondering if the skirt part will now be affected. I guess as this is my first attempt at proper dressmaking I must just 'suck it and see'.

Here are a few pix to show you what I have done. I will admit at this point that I have absolutely NO IDEA as to what I am doing and as such I am just going to go with it and see what it looks like.

You will need to click onto the pictures to make them a little clearer !

So I have made the following changes to my traced pattern. I am finding that due to the curved lines, and wraped back  of this pattern make it pretty hard to make all the changes (in my own view of course).

After adding 2 inches to the bodice length I tried to fix the gaping neckline by adding some tissue there and grading up. You can see that in the below picture. (Sorry my photo presenting skills are not that great with fancy arrows and stuff, but as I am new to this I am not sure how to do all that yet). I then made sure that the back bodice shoulder had some tissue added to make sure that they were still the same width for sewing.

As you can see, I have had alot of 'fun' with the back bodice pieces - believe me its been a mare. As the back sagged so madly, as if I have a narrow back (as I think I cut too large a size) I took a tuck out. Now I am worried that the will be no recognisable wrap effect. But I think if I use this altered tissue to make a new muslin, even if it does not fit I have learnt valuable lessons in relation to changing a pattern tissue. I guess all practice is good practice, right ? And it cant be harming my sewing skills either.

I lowered the bust dart as my apex is lower than the pattern, and I also reduced the waist dart - I shortened both darts by around 1 inch. I'm hoping the fit on this version will be better.

As the centre of the shoulder seam needed to come forward due to my forward sloping shoulders I added 1 cm to the back bodice should and have marked 1cm  on the pattern to reduce the front piece by the same amount. I used a French curve to follow the curvature of the shoulder, and I dont think I have done a bad job.
See, all practice is good practice !

This is the back bodice - with an additional 1 cm added to the shoulder. Check out the line of the wrap - see how many changes I have made ? Wowee - its certainly been a lesson.

I am finding it hard to tissue fit and prefer making a muslin for this project. i hope with more simple patterns I will be able to tissue fit. I really wish I had a dressmaking form as I struggle to pin and fit by myself. Not sure if thats common or just comes with practice ?

So, I am now going to go and cut the fabric to make the 3rd muslin. One thing I am worried about is the fact that I am going to need alot more fashion fabric then I originally thought, and as such I may need to buy some more online - but will it be from the same bolt and exactly match ? Hmmmm probably not eh ?

I shall let you know how I get on ! Wish me luck (I need plenty of it !!)

K xxx

New Project - Colette Crepe dress

Hey,

So here are some pictures (I hope) of my efforts so far. I was inspired to make this dress by taking part (albeit rather late) in Gerties sew along. You can  join in too by following this link:

http://www.blogforbettersewing.com/2010/12/crepe-sew-along-1-cutting-out-your.html

I have taken a few pix so that I can share mine with you....

This is the fabric I will make it from, its grey polka dot batik, I am looking for a contrasting fabric for the ties.... I am thinking either mustard yellow (to go with some well nice shoes, but wont go with much else) or really bright pink. Any suggestions ?

And this is the pattern that I am using. It is from an American company called Collette Patterns. Its a cute dress that wraps around the back. You can get yours here:  http://www.colettepatterns.com/

You can double click on any of the photos to make them bigger. Just in case you need to see any details.

I am making version 2, which has a sweetheart neckline and a contrasting sash.

Here is a picture of my first muslin, which I made direct from the pattern supplied.

I wrote directly onto the fabric, very satisfying ! It is important to label both the pattern pieces and and muslins, to remember which pattern pieces the muslin relates too.

I read that you should make changes to the length first. So that is what I did. I traced the original pattern. and then cut across the front and back pieces, and added 2 inches in length. Next time I need to do that, rather than mess about with measuring, I am going to use this pattern paper to make the adjustments. Mucho more simples !

Already measured lines, brilliant eh ?

After that excitement I redrew the dart lines and grain lines. Then I cut out fabric for the second muslin. I will need to change darts and shoulder seams, but I have not got round to that yet. I will use the traced pattern that I made to make the changes I need, keeping the original pattern intact.

Here is a picture of the made up second muslin, the only change so far being the length. Then I hand basted the pieces together, ready for further fitting (which I have not yet done !).

Well, that's as far as I got. I am hoping to have made the changes and a new muslin by the weekend.

Thirsty work !  So I am off to get me some vimto, and then head up the wooden stairs to bedfordshire.

k xxx